Adventure 2024 officially began with a sojourn to the Royal Capital City of Kraków, Poland.
Poland wasn’t on the Adventures List I developed in 2015, but travel, like life, is unpredictable. That’s why I have referred to my travels as adventures, and not vacations.
My Kraków Adventure was very uneventful. I don’t say that as a negative. Actually, this adventure was less stressful and more relaxing. The reason why was because I didn’t pack my itinerary with activities. I had three days for this adventure, and I didn’t want to run myself ragged trying to see all the sights.
No, relaxation was the goal of this adventure.
There was only one ‘must-do’ activity — the Wieliczka Salt Mine. The salt mine was the only activity on the Visit a City app that piqued my interest.
My salt mine visit was so awesome, it deserves its own journal entry.
Of course, there were other historic and fun sites to visit, and I did visit them. I simply didn’t build a stringent itinerary as I normally do with my adventures.
First, we need to get to Kraków.
GETTING HERE
There were a few ways to get to Poland. I could drive, but 10 hours driving sucks. Plus, I really hate driving long distances.
The train was cheap at €50, but took 13 hours in total. For a short weekend trip, 13-hours on a train isn’t ideal.
A flight was about €110 (luggage included), but was only 90 minutes. Also, it was an early morning flight.
I adore early morning flights. The airport is less chaotic at that time, and less likely my flight will be delayed. In my experience, flights that depart after 9 a.m. are usually delayed 80% of the time, usually because the assigned aircraft is delayed leaving another city.
Anyway, the flight was uneventful. We departed eight minutes late and arrived 10 minutes late. No worries though. I’d factored this fact in, along the 45-minutes it would take at baggage claim when arranging for my private transfer to the hotel.
Lukasz, my Welcome Pickups driver, was excellent. He provided clear instructions to the meeting point and arrived on time. He provided me with tips and things to do in the city, including decent restaurants and best times to visit the coolest sites.
The ride from the airport to my hotel was about 30-minutes. Lukasz got me there safely with no hassles.
GARAMOND, A TRIBUTE PORTFOLIO HOTEL
The Garamond is a lovely hotel. The location was great. A short 6 to 8-minute walk to Rynek Glówny, the Main Market Square was one reason I selected this hotel. The price and getting a few Marriott reward nights were the other reasons. 🙂
The hotel, according to its ‘About Us’ page, resides in a building that dates back to 1938. The building was once home to the editorial office of Poland’s most popular daily newspaper, the Ilustrowany Kuryer Codzienny.
As a writer, this tidbit of history intrigues me. I wondered what section of the newspaper was housed in the room I was allocated?
Overall, my stay was lovely. I opted for a Standard Room with a double bed and city view. I didn’t expect my room to be ready since I arrived a few hours before the check-in time. However, my room was ready and I was handed my key.
Traveler’s Note:
Marriott does have this Mobile Key option, but I don’t like it. Too much personal information needed to get the ‘mobile’ key. Prefer to check in at the desk and get a key. Plus, interacting with customer service staff is one of the best ways to determine if another stay at the hotel is warranted.
Customer service was brilliant. Every member of the hotel staff was sweet and nice, and willing to do what they could to make their guests’ stay enjoyable. My room was comfortable and relaxing. The bathroom seemed a bit small and tight upon first glance, but it was roomy enough for me.
The room was cleaned upon entering and nothing out of place. Shower was powerful. The view of the park was wonderful.
The hotel enforced quiet hours, so I had a good night’s sleep. The noise from the air conditioning was the only issue I had with my room. It was loud, but disappeared when turned off.
Breakfast was amazing. I loved the tower and the option for a freshly cooked meal.
RYNEK GŁÓWNY
My Kraków exploration began with a photo safari of Old Town, beginning with Rynek Główny, the main market square.
The square is the nerve centre of the Kraków medieval Old Town. The square is one of the largest squares I’ve ever explored. At first glance, I thought it was the largest in Europe, but further research discovered there were larger squares, with Charles Square in Prague being the larger medieval square.
Dominating the landscape is Kraków Cloth Hall.
It is impressive on the outside, but exploring the inner workings is where you understand why this was the heart of Kraków medieval clothing trade. Today, the hall is still a busy hub for trades, with everything from crafts to jewelry to cheap tourist souvenirs being sold.
The Hall is also home to the Sukiennice Museum. The museum houses the largest permanent exhibit of 19th-century Polish painting and sculpture.
RYNEK UNDERGROUND
Hidden underneath the Cloth Hall and Saint Mary’s Church lies a treasure trove of history about Kraków.
Rynek Underground is an interactive archeology museum exploring the origins of the settlement of Kraków.
I was drawn to the museum because it’s an interactive museum. I love interactive museums, especially ones where you can touch, feel and role-play your way through history. The Rynek Underground was exactly this type of museum.
However, I almost didn’t visit. Why? Well, because I couldn’t find the ticket office.
Yes, I found the museum’s entrance. But that’s not where the ticket office was located. Actually, I discovered the Sukiennice Museum while searching for the Underground’s ticket office. I was very close to visiting the Sukiennice Museum instead.
Luckily, a nice lad pointed me to the ticket office. Ticket in hand, I headed back to the Underground’s entrance and into the museum.
Overall, this is an intriguing museum with lots of history. For 36zł, or €8.50 or $10, this isn’t a terrible way to spend an hour or two.
After a small security check, I was directed to the entrance to the “Following the Traces of European identity of Kraków” exhibit. This is the museum’s permanent exhibition.
Upon entering, I walked through a cool fog machine which was to simulate being transported back in time to the Kraków of seven hundred years ago. A very neat effect. Add in the cooler temperatures inside the exhibit and you would feel like you’ve been whisked back in time.
The museum contained numerous items related to daily life in medieval Kraków. Some of the items you could touch and play with, like a blacksmith’s hammer and anvil. I enjoyed the height exhibit, where I learned I’m only about two inches taller than the average Kraków woman seven hundred years ago.
The exhibition also included touchscreens, holograms, projections and documentary films presented in the spaces of the cellars. Unlike the ‘Living History’ videos at the Museo De Historia De Valencia, the Rynek Underground videos didn’t have multi-language options.
The museum was bigger than I expected and I learned a lot. Spent about 75 minutes, so not too long, and got my money’s worth. Highly recommend visiting but go later in the day as it seems there are a lot of young students during the morning and early afternoon.
KAZIMIERZ
The Jewish District, commonly known as Kazimierz, was next on my itinerary. This is also one of the areas Lukasz told me I should check out. Deciding to hop on one of the ‘city tours’ buggies, I sat back and listened to the stories as my tour guide showed me the different synagogues and historic sites of the district.
Jan Karski’s story was one that intrigued me. My tour guide referred to him as the Polish James Bond. He was an underground courier for the Polish government-in-exile. He delivered evidence of the mass murder of European Jews to the western Allies. He reported on Nazi atrocities in the Warsaw ghetto and on the deportation of Jews to killing centers.
KRAKÓW GHETTO
The next part of the tour explored the Kraków Ghetto. The ghetto was used as a staging area for separating the “able workers” from those who couldn’t work. Many were eventually deported to the Belzec extermination camp as well as to Płaszów slave-labor camp, and Auschwitz concentration camp.
The tour made a stop at one of the remaining parts of the ghetto wall, which features a memorial plaque and typical ghetto home in the background.
Next, we stop at the Jewish Ghetto Memorial in Bohaterów Getta Square.
The Empty Chairs in Ghetto Heroes Square commemorates all the victims and the tragic events of World War II.
The monument designers decided to place 33 large chairs in the square and 37 smaller ones that people could sit on. Each steel chair represents 1,000 victims. The majority of the chair-monuments were arranged in rows and faced the former Under The Eagle Pharmacy.
Oskar Schindler’s Factory
The tour drove by the Oskar Schindler’s Factory, stopping briefly for photo ops of the factory’s entrance and photo of the 1,200 individuals whom Schindler saved during the Holocaust by employing them in his enamelware and ammunition factories in occupied Poland and the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia.
I didn’t visit the factory as it is very popular and tickets have to be purchased at least three days in advance.
DINING
I was spoiled for choices when it came to dining. Plenty of street food, pubs, fine dining, and typical fast food options. From traditional Polish delicacies to American fare, if you can’t find a delicious meal in Kraków, consider yourself too picky.
Hard Rock Cafe Kraków: 4 Stars
I swear I wasn’t looking for a Hard Rock Cafe. I stumbled upon it during my market square photo safari.
One of the smallest HRCs I’ve visited, the food was standard. Not many Polish options to balance out the American fare, but the food was familiar.
Lovely view of the square. I would’ve preferred sitting inside, but customer service was lovely and it was a nice day. Ordered the steak salad, fries and coke. It was surprisingly tasty. Enjoyed my meal while watching life in the square.
Szara Resto&Bar: 3 Stars
Overall, edible lunch but don’t think I’ll eat here again and won’t recommend it to other explorers. Prices was expensive for food that was just okay, nothing special. Flavors didn’t blow me away. Customer service was decent.
The fish soup was okay, but bland. The salmon was presented nicely, but it tasted no different than the frozen salmon I normally cook. The wait for the mousse was a bit long. Not sure why, but it was the best tasting portion of the meal.
The horse carriages passing by every hour left an aroma of stink. Luckily, the smell didn’t linger and ruin my meal.This isn’t the restaurant’s fault, but diners should be aware if sitting outside.
Kuryer: 2 Stars
This was the hotel’s restaurant. I always like to check out the hotel’s dining options if possible for meals other than breakfast. Customer service was professional and decent. The prices were on par with standard hotel prices around the world – meaning it was slightly expensive. The menu didn’t really excite me, but I found a few options my taste buds could endure.
I didn’t order a starter because I wasn’t very hungry. However, service did include bread with black butter.
Never tried black butter before. And I won’t try it again. 🤢
I ordered the seasonal fish, which was trout. The dish was served with creamy purée, pickled cauliflower, edamame beans and butter sauce.
The meal looked delicious, but looks can be deceiving. The fish was swimming in the creamy purée and butter sauce. Whoever decided to pickle cauliflower needs to be taken to the woodshed and made to eat it. Disgusting! 🤢
CITY LIFE
I spent the remainder of my adventure capturing city life. Yes, there’s much more to see in this beautiful city. However, this adventure was for relaxation more than exploration.
The Royal Capital City of Kraków, Poland is filled with history, beauty and plenty of green spaces.
A perfect destination for relaxation.
NEXT ADVENTURE:
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