As I was crafting my Helsinki Adventure itinerary, my friends and colleagues couldn’t help but chime in with a collective chorus: “You can’t possibly visit Helsinki and not visit Suomenlinna.”
They said it so often that I found myself curious about this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A little research turned up some intriguing facts that made the “Fortress of Finland” leap to the top of my ‘must-explore’ list.
The sea fortress is composed of eight islands, of which six have been fortified. It was once a mighty maritime stronghold and the home base for the Archipelago Fleet, brimming with tales of sailors, strategists, and centuries of history.
I decided to carve out half a day in my itinerary solely for this historical adventure. I couldn’t wait to channel my inner explorer as I soaked in the beauty and mystery of this extraordinary locale.
GETTING THERE
Suomenlinna is a district of Helsinki and a mere 15-minute ferry ride from the bustling heart of the capital.
Yes, I know. I am not a boat person.
Boats and I have a complicated relationship. They’re like that friend who always makes plans but conveniently ghosts at the last minute. Ferry, cruise ship, kayak — you name it; if it floats, I’m not rushing to jump onboard.
Nevertheless, my desire to explore Suomenlinna was strong and overpowered my fear.
I first checked out half-day tours on Viator and Get Your Guide. This was mainly to see what the tours included and whether they were worth the price.
Spoiler Alert: They weren’t. The tours were exorbitantly priced for what they offered, which was essentially a bus ride through Helsinki (think City Sightseeing tour), complete with the obligatory “look, there’s a statue” commentary, before hopping on the ferry to Suomenlinna.
I learned from my research that the HSL ferry is part of Helsinki’s excellent public transportation system. And thanks to my Helsinki Card — my golden ticket — a round-trip to the sea fortress was included.
Knowing that most tourists will descend on the fortress around 1030, I decided to take the 0900 ferry.
Actually, I was aiming for the 0820 ferry to capture those Instagram-worthy shots with a backdrop of pristine solitude.
Alas, I got a little turned around when walking to Market Square and the ferry port, and missed that ferry.
No worries. While waiting for the next ferry, I discovered a charming little souvenir booth just opening for the day. I struck gold with some delightful trinkets that were much cheaper than the tourist traps masquerading as gift shops.
So, while I might not have made the 0820 ferry, I ended up snagging some quality mementos — proof that sometimes, losing your way can lead to delightful discoveries!
A TRANQUIL RIDE ACROSS THE BALTIC SEA
The ferry arrived around 0850. Once the departing passengers disembarked, the queues opened. I tapped my Helsinki Card and boarded.
There were plenty of seats as there weren’t many passengers at this time. I took advantage of the moment and snapped a few photos, mainly as proof that I actually got on the ferry.
THE ARRIVAL ‘WOW’ MOMENT
The trip was smooth and calm. Upon arrival, I disembarked and immediately snapped a selfie with the Suomenlinna sign.
The visitor centre was my first stop. I generally stop at a city’s visitor centre for information gathering.
Here, I find information on walking tours, landmarks — including those that aren’t as popular — activities, shops’ operating hours, and more.
Every so often, as I experienced during my Bath Adventure, the visitor centre may have special events or deals for certain activities and places.
Nowadays, you can find a lot of information on a city’s official tourism website. So, never downplay the wealth of knowledge a city’s visitor centre can provide.
In Suomenlinna’s Visitor Centre, I grabbed a few maps detailing various areas of interest. I also snapped a photo of the ferry schedule. Important information to know so you don’t end up missing a ferry and waiting an hour for the next one.
THE BLUE ROUTE
Thanks to the visitor centre map, I learned about the Blue Route. The Blue Route weaves through the historic fortress from the vibrant north to the serene south.
Stretching approximately 1.5 kilometers (or about .93 miles) one way, my adventure began at the main pier, right in front of the Jetty Barracks and the Visitor Center, and ended at the King’s Gate.
Apparently, there is a slightly easier-to-walk route that runs parallel to the Blue Route. I never found it, but it was fun getting my steps in.
TRAVELER’S NOTE:
- Wear very, very comfortable shoes; maybe some with thick soles. Those rocky walkways are no joke!
- Dress in layers. This is an island, so expect very chilly/cold weather.
- Don’t bother with the hats. The wind is strong and will blow your hat away. Ladies, bring scrunchies or something to tie your hair up if needed.
Suomenlinna Church
The first landmark that caught my eye was the majestic Suomenlinna Church, an architectural gem built in 1854. Originally constructed to serve the Russian Orthodox garrison, the church stands as a testament to the island’s tumultuous history. As I approached, the calmness of its surroundings enveloped me.
Upon Finland assuming control of the island, this sacred space was converted to a Lutheran church.
The Great Courtyard
The Great Courtyard was the next stop. Designed and completed in the 1760s, it served as the main square and administrative center of the entire fortress. Surrounding the courtyard, you could find the illustrious Commandant’s House.
This regal abode housed the fortress commandants. And let’s not forget the main guardhouse, standing proudly as the sentinel of security. Bring a flashlight and watch your step when you explore inside.
Ehrensvärd’s Tomb
In the center of the square is the tomb of Augustin Ehrensvärd, featuring an impressive monument designed by King Gustav III of Sweden and completed by Ehrensvärd’s son Carl August, along with Johan Tobias Sergel.
Augustin Ehrensvärd was a Swedish military officer and a talented artist whose creative spirit breathed life into his military designs.
One of his most notable achievements is the Suomenlinna fortress, which showcases Ehrensvärd’s masterful blending of aesthetics and military function. In addition to Suomenlinna, he also designed the Svartholm fortress.
The Dry Dock
Next up was the Dry Dock, the oldest in Finland and one of the oldest still operating basin docks in the world. In the 1760s, legendary ship architect Fredrik Henrik af Chapman oversaw the construction of majestic vessels for the archipelago fleet. Now, this iconic dock serves as a haven for traditional wooden sailing ships, with skilled craftsmen dedicated to restoring these timeless beauties.
Viewing this living museum, I felt the echoes of maritime history. Then I remembered — BOATS!
ENJOY THE MOMENT
I spent another forty minutes walking the Blue Route, snapping photos. I was relishing the opportunity to capture amazing images while learning more about this historic sea fortress.
As I walked and waited for the museums to open, I reveled in the calm, embraced the peace, and cherished the tranquility around me.
I gazed out over the water, realizing that this was more than just a walk; it was an inspiring adventure that awakened my appreciation for the beauty of the world around me.
Amidst this serene backdrop, Henry David Thoreau’s words rang true:
“It’s not what you look at that matters. It’s what you see.”
Until next time …
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