My Mallorca Adventure continued the way every good adventure should: with a hotel breakfast, courtesy of the AC Hotel Ciutat de Palma.
Yes, breakfast was included, and as a professional breakfast enthusiast, I made sure to get my money’s worth despite the underwhelming selection.
Still, breakfast was the only real letdown during my stay at the AC Hotel Ciutat de Palma.
Plans Change
During my research and planning phase, I was told to visit the famous Drach Caves, also known as Cuevas del Drach.
The Drach Caves are basically Mallorca’s underground celebrity. Located in Porto Cristo, they stretch for almost 1,200 meters and plunge 25 meters below the surface. The real showstopper? Lake Martel, a subterranean lake so impressive that musicians occasionally serenade boat-riding visitors with live classical concerts by candlelight.
If you like your geology with a side of drama, this is the spot.
Tickets for the Drach Caves can be purchased online in advance or at the entrance, but booking ahead is strongly recommended, especially during peak season.
Standard adult tickets are typically around €19, with discounts available for children and groups.
The ticket price includes a guided tour of the caves, a classical music concert by Lake Martel, and a short boat ride across the underground lake.
Tours are offered in several languages and usually last about an hour. Be sure to check the official website for up-to-date schedules and to secure your preferred time slot.
Wooden Trains: History with a View
As dazzling as stalactites and underground orchestras sound, my heart just wasn’t in spelunking mode. I had visions of Mallorca as the perfect cocktail of spring sunshine, leisurely strolls, and the occasional pastry, not a crash course in subterranean humidity.
So instead, I traded limestone for locomotives and hopped aboard the Ferrocarril de Sóller.
This wooden train has been clattering along since 1912, originally built to transport citrus fruits and, presumably, wide-eyed tourists like me, from Sóller to Palma.
Its route winds through the UNESCO-listed Tramuntana mountains, an engineering marvel of tunnels, bridges, and the occasional goat sighting.
History with a view? Sign me up.
Expectations vs Reality
My excitement and expectations were high, fuelled by the Ferrocarril de Sóller’s glossy promise to showcase “the diverse landscapes and views … from the interior to the majestic mountains, natural landscapes and fantastic beaches.”
I pictured myself snapping jaw-dropping photos, soaking up a bit of Mallorcan history, and maybe even feeling the wind in my hair as we wound through the countryside.
For anyone plotting their own train adventure, here’s the essential info: tickets are best bought online unless you love queuing, with prices hovering around €40 for a round-trip combo that throws in the vintage tram to Port de Sóller.
The route covers roughly 27 kilometers, and the train trundles through 13 tunnels, across the eye-catching ‘Cinc Ponts’ viaduct, and past endless lemon and orange groves. Each journey takes about an hour, so settle in, bring a snack, and try not to nod off before the scenery arrives.
Sadly, the glossy brochure was the highlight. My real journey was less dazzling than the marketing suggested.
The Ferrocarril de Sóller Experience
The Ferrocarril de Sóller is a complete tourist trap. Still, it does deliver on its promise of diverse landscapes and views, just not always the ones you might imagine from the brochures.
I had pictured a trip full of old-world charm: polished wood interiors, sweeping panoramas, and that magical sense of stepping back in time.
I boarded the 10:10 train from Palma, immediately swallowed up by a crowd that left me wedged shoulder-to-shoulder with strangers. The air felt thick and stale, and every seat creaked under the weight of too many expectations, and too many tourists.
To top it off, the train left late, eating into my precious time in Sóller and turning anticipation into impatience.
If the company wanted to give guests a truly realistic ride, just as it might have felt back in 1912 — cramped, noisy, a little chaotic, and far from glamorous — they’ve absolutely succeeded.
In that sense, the Ferrocarril de Sóller offers a trip through history: discomfort and all.
The Diverse Landscapes
Much of the route wound through the less picturesque outskirts of the city, with fleeting glimpses of graffiti and neglected lots.
There were certainly a few lovely moments, the mountains in the distance, a burst of citrus groves here and there, but they were sandwiched between long stretches of tunnels and less-than-inspiring scenery.
There was a photo stop, yes, but it felt more like a quick break than a highlight worthy of the €40 ticket price.
Was I disappointed? Absolutely.
Would I call it a disaster? Not quite.
For some, the history and novelty might outweigh the lackluster views. For me, it was a lesson in expectations, and a reminder that sometimes, the journey doesn’t quite match the postcard.
The Tram Ride to Port de Sóller
The Sóller tram ride was included in my combo ticket, a small relief, because if I’d paid €10 one way just for the tram, I would have felt thoroughly fleeced.
The interior was packed and stuffy, and the wooden benches offered all the comfort of a church pew.
I managed to snag a window seat, but fate was having a laugh because it placed me on the side with unremarkable views of mostly tangled bushes and a parade of rubbish bins awaiting pickup.
Disappointment simmered as the tram lurched along, the anticipation of coastal vistas giving way to the reality of suburban clutter.
But then, as the tram finally rounded a bend and Port de Sóller came into view, everything changed.
The sweep of the bay with its turquoise water, bobbing boats, and a gentle crescent of golden sand was pure Mediterranean magic.
My frustration melted away, at least for a moment.
If you need a reason to endure the journey, the port itself is it: magnificent enough to make you forget, briefly, everything it took to get there.
Return to Palma
Before long it was time to squeeze back onto the Ferrocarril for the return to Palma.
The journey back was, somehow, even more disappointing. The carriage was grimy, crumbs and spilled drinks evidence of earlier travelers, and the air was thick with the collective fatigue of a day’s worth of tourists.
The staff, clearly at the end of their patience, treated us with the kind of brusqueness that makes you wonder if you’ve done something wrong simply by being there.
As the train clattered through tunnels and past the same tired scenery, I couldn’t help but replay the day in my mind.
This spontaneous half-day trip, born out of desire to experience more of the famous Mallorcan charm, might have been a highlight for its novelty, but certainly not for its glamour or comfort.
Every adventure leaves you with stories. Sometimes they’re dazzling. Sometimes, like this one, they’re a little gritty, a little grimy, and a lot less magical than you’d hoped.
Unforgettable? Sure.
Pleasant? Not so much.
Final Thoughts & Tips
Don’t let my ‘unforgettable,’ seared-into-my-memory-for-all-the-wrong-reasons, experience put you off from visiting Sóller.
Allow it to inspire you to do a little more research before jumping on that nostalgic wooden train.
If you crave the romance of rail travel, go in with your eyes open: you might get a slice of history, but you’ll also get a taste of 21st-century crowds, questionable air quality, and a masterclass in patience.
For a less “adventurous” journey, the bus, taxi, or Uber will get you there with less drama and likely just as quickly.
But if you do decide to brave the Ferrocarril de Sóller, buy your ticket in advance and pack both snacks and realistic expectations.
The round-trip combo is about €40, which is a small price to pay for a story you’ll tell for years, whether you’re laughing or sighing as you do.
Until next time…
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