Nestled in the fertile, sun-kissed valley near Mallorca’s dramatic northwest coast sits the picturesque town of Sóller, a place so charming it threatens to upstage your Instagram feed.
I decided to spend the day here after researching the historic Ferrocarril de Sóller.
Okay, really I wanted to see if the citrus-scented air and old-world streets would inspire the wacky characters running through my head, so I added this day trip to my Mallorca Adventure.
Riding the Orange Express
If you crave the romance of rail travel, then hop aboard the iconic Ferrocarril de Sóller, a vintage wooden train that clacks and whistles its way from Palma through olive groves and lemon orchards.
Traveler’s Note: I booked my €32 combo ticket in advance because I had no desire to stand in a long, sun-drenched queue. Let’s be real: it’s a slice of history, but you’ll also get a taste of 21st-century crowds, questionable air quality, and a masterclass in patience.
Port in a Storm
Once I arrived, I jumped aboard the vintage tram to Port de Sóller, Sóller’s seaside sibling. The tram rattled past gardens and through citrus groves, ending at a crescent-shaped bay that looked plucked straight from a postcard.
Truth be told, the tram ride was a letdown. I was wedged between tourists, the air was thick and stale, and the wooden benches were about as comfortable as a pile of rocks.
My Ferrocarril de Sóller ticket included the tram, and I was grateful, because if I’d spent €10 one way just for that experience, I would have needed a second gelato to recover.
My seat had a view of overgrown shrubs and a parade of rubbish bins, which was hardly the Mediterranean fantasy I’d imagined. I tried to distract myself by people-watching, but even that grew old after a few stops.
But then, without warning, the tram rounded a curve. The bay burst into view. Sunlight twinkled on the water, boats bobbed along the marina, and pastel buildings stacked against the hills.
Any irritation evaporated. My heart did a little leap as I realized this was the postcard view I’d been hoping to see. The letdown of the ride was instantly replaced by pure, unfiltered excitement at the sight of the sea.
Lunch by the Sea
The Port was a sensory feast, and the aroma of garlicky prawns and saffron drifted on the sea breeze, drawing me straight to one of the waterfront restaurants.
I settled at Kingfisher for its views and delectable Black Seafood Spaghetti.
I ordered the Black Seafood Spaghetti, a tangle of jet-black noodles, briny with squid ink, tossed with plump shrimp and tender calamari, all glistening beneath a slick of olive oil and scattered with fresh parsley. Each forkful tasted of the Mediterranean, salty, rich, and intensely satisfying.
I skipped the paella because it would soon star as the centerpiece of my Spanish Cooking Experience later in my adventure, but the envy I felt as paella-laden platters drifted past was real.
Marina Moments
Saving room for gelato, I took a short stroll along the marina, where I browsed quirky souvenir shops for ceramics, olive oil, and those famous Sóller oranges, all of which make suitcase-friendly gifts.
Back to Plaça Constitució
I hopped on the tram and headed back to Sóller’s bustling Plaça Constitució, where the air was thick with the scent of espresso and freshly baked ensaïmadas. I ordered a tea, which earned me some quirky looks from the barista and fellow customers.
What? I prefer tea to coffee. Don’t judge me. 🙃
Then I settled in for some people-watching. Bonus points if you spot a local with a basket of lemons larger than your head.
Església de Sant Bartomeu
As I sat under the orange tree, sipping tea and people-watching, I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by Sóller’s architectural superstar: the Església de Sant Bartomeu.
This striking church, with its dramatic neo-Gothic façade and playful Modernist touches, dominates the heart of Plaça Constitució and practically begs for a photo op.
Step inside, and you’ll find soaring stone arches, intricate stained glass, and a cool hush that instantly transports you to another era.
The church has roots stretching back to the 13th century, but its current look is a wild blend of centuries. Gaudí’s disciple, Joan Rubió i Bellver, left his mark on the façade in the early 1900s, giving it a whimsical, almost fairytale charm.
Operating hours may shift for mass or special events, so check the sign at the door.
But don’t sweat if the church is closed for a special event. You can check out the virtual tour on the website.
Whether you’re seeking a moment of reflection or just want to marvel at the architecture, this is one Sóller stop you can’t skip.
Science & Siesta
From there, I strolled to the Balearic Museum of Natural Sciences. Tickets were reasonably priced at €9 and available at the door, so I thought this would be a nice way to pass the time.
Silly me. You’d think by now I should know to check the official website for hours. Sóller is a small town with big siesta energy.
Last-Minute Souvenir Finds
Before heading back to the train station, I wandered through the market stalls, each bursting with color and chatter.
I picked up a hand-painted ceramic magnet, a miniature Mallorca cookbook, and a dozen other little trinkets for friends back home.
The temptation of ensaïmadas was too strong, and I couldn’t resist grabbing a few to snack on during the train ride. My haul felt like a slice of Sóller to carry home: sunshine, artistry, and a little bit of island magic.
Orange You Glad You Visited?
Sóller’s magic lingers long after you leave, in the scent of orange blossoms and the memory of sun-dappled train rides.
If you’re looking for inspiration, adventure, or just an excuse to eat your way through Mallorca, this valley gem delivers.
Until next time…
Candy Knight's Stories 